Dominica - Nature's Island

As Brits, we’re not used to strangers being overly friendly. In fact, many of us find that kind of behaviour faintly startling and suspect. 

Arriving on the small Caribbean island of Dominica then, can be a slightly alarming experience. The airport staff smile and welcome you, taxi drivers are proud to tell you about their island and their people, families walking along the street stop to ask if you’re enjoying your visit: everyone, without exception genuinely wants your trip to be your best holiday ever.

Dominica (pronounced Domin-ee-ka) is a Caribbean Island that no one has really heard of, mainly because there are no white sandy beaches and no luxury all-inclusive resorts; music to my ears. 

Instead, it’s all about nature. Almost entirely covered with lush, green rainforest, this volcanic isle has more rivers than days of the year and fascinating wildlife. Many of its best diving spots feature in Pirates of the Caribbean.

My glamorous dorm

I checked into the 3 Rivers Eco-Lodge, tucked inland in the middle of the rainforest, keen to truly switch off and get away from my busy day-to-day life. As expected, it was basic: the dorm consisted of a few wooden slats cobbled together with a couple of bunk beds and thin mattresses inside, but that was all I needed.

I spent most of my time roaming around the surrounding area, swimming in stunning, natural pools so magical you’d expect a mermaid to appear from their depths, wading up rivers and streams to discover awe-inspiring waterfalls, or climbing down precarious cliffs with only a tattered rope for support to a black sand beach reminiscent of something from Jurassic Park. I survived on huge avocados and mangoes, picked straight from the trees in the forest, although on one memorable occasion, my search for food led me to the village butcher, who was slaughtering his pigs to take and sell to the market the following morning and invited me to watch.

Natural pool 

Jurassic Park...

 

Climbing one of Dominica’s only active Volcanoes was a particular highlight of the trip. The six hour hike took us up a steep path through the extremely humid lower level rainforest, before we reached a viewing point, giving a welcome opportunity to look out over to the island’s capital Roseau, and coastline, before heading down into the dramatically named Valley of Desolation.

Here, the crater left behind from a previous explosion created an eerie atmosphere, with red earthy colours and exposed rock providing the perfect backdrop to the steam emanating from the stream, evaporating from the volcano’s heat as it hits the ground.

The highest point of the trek was a boiling lake – a big bowl of white sulphurous water that was literally bubbling and spiting from the sheer heat.

It wasn’t all exercise, and many an evening was spent drinking Dominican beer, listening to local Reggae and making new friends, both locals and fellow travellers. Anyone who likes a bit of adventure and the idea of getting away from the Caribbean's resorts should think about a trip to Dominica, it's a real hidden gem.

Soph x

Kubili - Dominica's beer