Perth-fect City Break

Western Australia's capital, Perth is a thriving city, with distinct neighbourhoods each with their own personality, stunning beaches, plenty to see and do and a  growing foodie scene. A mining boom a few years ago does mean that prices are steep (although I'm told they are being pushed back down now), but it's well worth spending a few days there. It has a pleasant, laid back feel about it and I could easily picture myself living there.

A Shag admiring Elizabeth Quay

Oddly, Australians love to refer to the city centre as the CBD (Central Business District), a term I haven't heard since studying Guilford's CBD as a 15 year old GCSE student. Perth's central area is worth a wander, with a large pedestrian shopping area, the new Elizabeth Quay, the Bell Tower and a funny side street called London Court, designed I assume to replicate Ye Olde London, complete with hanging signs in old-school font outside shops selling knicknacks (and ugg boots... obviously).

I always find running or cycling in a city helps you to cover ground more quickly and get a real feel for it. Perth has a pretty good system of cycle lanes (shared with pedestrians so you can't whizz along too fast!) which run alongside the freeways to get you around and when on the roads, drivers seemed respectful enough, although a local had told us this wasn't always the case. Perhaps years of cycling in London has warped my perception of "safe cycling"!

 

                 Cycling through Kings Park

We hired a bike and our first stop was the huge Kings Park, perched on a hill overlooking Perth and the Swan River, with a network of cycling and walking trails through a mixture of untamed bush, manicured lawns and botanic gardens. It's home to a huge variety of wildlife - some of it endemic to the region and rare - and a remarkably calm place to spend a few hours, or have a picnic.

Sunset at Cottesloe

Cycling on, we passed through the affluent and hilly neighbourhood of  Peppermint Grove, oggling the huge  properties as we made our way to Cottesloe beach, one of the white sandy beaches just on the outskirts of the city. We had time for a quick dip before settling down with a beer  to watch the sun set over the water - the first of many incredible sunsets we've experienced in Western Australia.

Freemantle

Fremantle - or "Freo" as the locals refer to it - is a small port city just on the outskirts of Perth and a hub for culture, music, bars. A shop selling surf gear jostles for attention alongside an "op shop" (charity shop) and a hippy store full of incense and tie die, whilst not far, a huge undercover market has stalls selling health teas, aboriginal art, Indian clothes as well as fruit and veg. Freo also has a couple of brilliant Maritime Museums, detailing the initial landings in Western Australia by the dutch and the many shipwrecks along the coast. We finished off our day there at the Little Creatures brewery - home to some of WA's most famous beers and a bustling venue with inside/outside/upstairs /downstairs terraces and spaces, giving the huge place plenty of cosy corners to people watch from. 

Rottnest

Our bikes also came in handy on our trip to Rottnest Island, famous for its Quokkas. Ferry tickets for the half hour journey plus entry to the island are very pricey (we saved some money by bringing our own bikes  and departing from Freo rather than Perth) but it's a great day out. Rottnest - Rat's Nest in Dutch-  was thus named when the Dutch spotted the Quokkas from offshore and thought they were giant rats - it's kept that name and has now become famous for the benign marsupials that inhabit it and are happy to pose for photos and selfies. We only spotted one, but heading out early, we cycling to the West side of the island and hardly saw anyone else, enjoying views of seals off the far edge, ospreys fishing and stopping for a swim at a couple of deserted beaches, nestled amongst rugged cliffs.

Where to stay
We got an Airbnb in Leederville, just a couple of stops on the train from Perth's CBD. This is one of Perth's most vibrant neighbourhoods, with a long drag teeming with restaurants, coffee shops and boutiques. It also backs onto the Lake Monger Reserve for those morning jobs around the lake.

We also stayed at the YHA in the city centre, which had private rooms and a good atmosphere. They also let you store bags there, handy if you're heading off elsewhere and don't need everything with you.

Eating and Drinking
We didn't eat and drink out much to save on cash but some of the places we did go are:
-  coffee at Tiisch; in the CBD. Light and airy, full of green plants and a super helpful team with great foodie recommendations
- dinner at Miss Potz; Asian tapas at affordable prices, especially as it's BYOB 
- fish and chips at the Grand Lane Fish House ;  just a stone's throw away from the YHA, really fresh fish.